The most common question that people have asked about this trip has been “How do you get started making all of these decisions?” I can only share how we made our decisions. But perhaps our tale will get you started on your own path. Keep in mind that this trip occurred in September, 2009; prices and options will certainly vary. Also, what mattered to us may not concern you a whit. Reader discretion is advised!
If you haven’t already read it, you might want to check out my “Choosing a cruise” page too. Lots of helpful information and links about things to consider when trying to make this huge decision!
Note that, because we went with Exploritas (formerly, Elderhostel and currently Road Scholar), we didn’t make any decisions about the cruise. They have been using the Tip Top fleet for years, so we just went with that. However, since our trip, I’ve learned a lot about all of the choices that people face when starting from scratch. One of the most basic decisions is how to travel around the islands—land-based tours (a.k.a., island hopping) or on a live-aboard boat? It’s a really important decision, and people often feel at a loss about how to think about traveling around the islands. It’s so important that I’ve written an entire page just about some of the issues or questions you might be wondering about; click here. I certainly don’t pretend to know all of the answers; but I know a lot of the really basic questions about cruises.
But choosing a cruise isn’t the only decision you have to make. Here are the topics you’ll find on this set of pages, along with their page numbers:
- the travel company (p. 2)
- the season—including some discussion of El Niño (p. 3)
- trip insurance (p. 4)
- extra days in Quito (p. 4)
- help on the Internet (p. 4)
Click below to jump to a particular page.
The Galápagos Islands, 2009 & 2013 
HI Tina, are you still replying to comments on this blog? I just wrote a long one hoping for some advice, but it did not post. 😦 Thanks!
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Hi, Amanda–
Yep, I still respond to posts. I never received notification from WordPress about your post. Since I have to approve all comments, that’s why you haven’t seen yours posted. Not sure what happened, but it sounds like WordPress never got it.
Feel free to post it again, if you made a copy–or if you have the energy, write it again. 🙂
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Thanks, Tina! We were trying to plan a Galapagos trip for March 2023. But due to very limited (and not ideal) options for the time we have available, we’ve decided to plan it for 2024 and will visit someplace simpler this spring. I am sure I’ll be back when I’m able to re-engage with Galapagos info. 🙂 It was a hard decision given how much research and excitement I’d already put into the process!
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Hi, Amanda–
Good idea to postpone the archipelago trip. It’s a once-in-a-lifetime (or maybe twice-in-a-lifetime, if you’re us) and you want to book enough in advance to get EXACTLY what you want. You won’t regret waiting.
Tina
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Hi Tina, thank you so much for your blog, it is super helpful. My husband and I are traveling to Galapagos over Christmas this year and need to pick one of the three suggested itineraries. I would really appreciate your thoughts.
Itinerary 1 on Great Majestic:
San Cristobal: El Junco Lagoon
Floreana: Post Office Bay
Floreana: Cormorant Point/ Devil’s Crown
Española: Suarez Point
Española: Gardner Islet / Osborn Islet / Gardner Bay
Santa Cruz: Twin Craters
Santa Cruz: Interpretation Center Fausto Llerena
Genovesa: El Barranco
Genovesa: Darwin Bay
Rabida Island
Chinese Hat Islet
San Cristobal: Witch Hill
San Cristobal: Lobos Island
San Cristobal: Interpretation Center
Itinerary 2 on Natural Paradise:
Embark Baltra to Eden Islet (Santa Cruz)
Vicente Roca Point (Isabela) & Espinosa Point (Fernandina)
Urbina Bay & Moreno Point (Isabela)
Sierra Negra Volcano, Wall of Tears, Wetlands & Arnaldo Tupiza Breeding Center (Isabela)
Chinese Hat (Santiago) & Mosquera Islet
Post Office Bay, Cormorant Point & Champion Islet (Floreana)
Suarez Point & Gardner Bay (Española)
Lobos Island & Disembark San Cristobal
Itinerary 3 on Archipel I:
San Christobal Interpretation Centre and Frigatebird Hill
Santa Fe and South Plaza
North Seymour, Chinese Hat
Twin Craters and El Chato Reserve, Fausto Llerena Breeding Centre (Santa Cruz)
Moreno Point and Elizabeth Bay (Isabela)
Tagus Cove (Isabela), Espinoza Point (Fernandina)
Egas Port (Santiago), Rábida
Bachas Beach (Santa Cruz)
Thank you!
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Hi, Anna–
I think I’d vote for #2. #1 is a typical (and nothing wrong with THAT!) eastern itinerary featuring Genovesa and Espanola. #3 is a weaker western itinerary featuring Isabela and Fernandina. Its main drawback, in my opinion, is that you start of the cruise with a lot of time spent either in town (Santa Cruz) or on islands that can be visited on day trips. If you’re paying extra for a cruise, I think you should go primarily to places that you can ONLY get to on a cruise.
#2 is a “southwestern” itinerary, one of my 2 favorites. It features not just the western stars (Isabela, Fernandina) but you also get to visit 1 of the eastern stars (Española). That’s the greatest bang for your archipelago buck that you’re going to get on an 8-day cruise. The magnificent Waved Albatross’s numbers will be dwindling by then (and they might even all be gone). But Española is a lovely island in its own right. So I like that itinerary the best.
I don’t know the boats, so I can’t comments on that aspect.
I’m so glad you’re finding the blog helpful! Thanks for letting me know.
Tina
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Thank you Tina! I was thinking the same myself, but it is great to get your feedback. The second itinerary is 2k more than the third one (almost 5k extra for two people), so now comes the tough decision 😦
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Hi Tina,
Curious to hear what you think of this itinerary for wildlife lovers Dec-Jan?
Day 1: Baltra /Santa Cruz: Highlands & Charles Darwin Station
Day 2: Plazas / Santa Fe
Day 3: San Cristobal: Cerro Brujo / Kicker Rock/ El Junco Lagoon
Day 4: Hood (Española): Gardner Bay & Punta Suarez
Day 5: Floreana: Punta Cormorant / Post Office Bay
Day 6: Dragon Hill / James: (Santiago) Sullivan Bay
Day 7: Tower (Genovesa): Darwin Bay / Prince Phillips steps
Day 8: Turtle Cove / Baltra (end)
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Hi, Laura–
This is a pretty typical “eastern” itinerary, highlighting Española and Genovesa. In Dec./Jan., the stars of Española will be leaving for 3 months of soaring off the coast of Perú, so you’ll likely see a few but not the large numbers that you’d see in earlier months. The later you are in that stretch of time, the more likely you might not see any. And they are truly magnificent.
But that’s not a critique of this itinerary in general. It looks like it’s a continuous one (meaning you don’t stop halfway through to off- and on-board passengers who are doing a shorter leg–that’s a plus, in my opinion. It doesn’t say where you would snorkel at Floreana. If it’s Devil’s Crown, that’s one of the 2 best spots in the archipelago. The alternative (maybe Campion Islet? I can’t remember) isn’t bad, just not the famous spot.
It’s a perfectly fine itinerary and you’ll see great wildlife on it–no worries!
Tina
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Hi Tina,
Just stumbled across your blog from TA and what a wealth of information!! Such detailed trip advice is super helpful so thank you very much for all your effort!
My partner and I are looking to book a trip in May-June and are avid wildlife and birdwatchers but we’re struggling between two trips offered through Intrepid.
1. https://www.intrepidtravel.com/au/ecuador/ultimate-galapagos-central-islands-daphne-102514
2. https://www.intrepidtravel.com/au/ecuador/complete-galapagos-daphne-102496
Would you have any advice as to which one would be better with your extensive experience?
Thanks so much for your help,
Deb
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Hi, Deb–
Thanks for the positive feedback about the blog! I’m glad you’re finding it helpful.
Your choice of itineraries is the most common one–between a “western” one (featuring Isabela and Fernandina) and an “eastern” on (featuring Genovesa and Española). Overall either one is just fine and you’ll have great experiences on either.
For minor differences, #1 seems just a tad stronger, at least by my values. #2 appears to include folks doing a shorter version of the cruise, since it says you stop in San Cristóbal to off- and on-load those folks. If the plane arrives on time, this transfer can go smoothly and you’ll be just fine. But if the plane is delayed, you can be stuck in town for longer than you really want to. Also I like traveling with the same group for the full 8 days, so you can really get to know each other. For those reasons, I always recommend a continuous itinerary, which #1 (the western option) offers. The only tiny downside I see to #1 is that the last 2 days leave you on inhabited islands, which can be a bit of a downer after the isolation and dramatic scenery of Isabela and Fernandina.
But let me reiterate–these are relatively minor differences and some people actually enjoy having the group change mid-cruise. So I’d say you can just choose one and start getting super-excited. You’ll have wonderful wildlife encounters on either one.
Tina
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Hi Tina,
Thanks so much for taking the time to respond and your advice. We’re leaning towards the western side to see remote areas like you’ve advised but we’re concerned about missing out on the big bird islands like Genovesa and Espanola with Intrepid’s itinerary. We are from Sydney, Australia so this has been a difficult decision as cruise options are limited here and it’s hard to know what is a good choice!
Other than Intrepid, would you recommend any other cruise company for an 8-10 day trip in a similar price range? We wanted to fit in Genovesa and Espanola as well. I know Intrepid includes flights but we can look into booking separate flights.
Once again, thanks so much for all your help. We’ve had a play around with your spreadsheet but there is just a myriad of choice out there.
Thank you for your kindness and response!
Deb
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Hi, Deb–
I don’t know anything about the prices these days. The one company I can recommend is Wittmer Turismo and the Tip Top fleet. If you have time to do a longer cruise, I think you can still piece together a 10- or 11-day itinerary that gets you to all 4 distant islands (without having to spend all 15 days which is the usual arrangement). The Tip Top fleet is at the first-class level and Wittmer is a well-respected owner. Other boats might allow that too, if they offer shorter cruises as well as 8-day cruises; but I haven’t really researched it thoroughly.
As alternatives, you can get a day trip to Española from San Cristóbal. It probably doesn’t run every day, but I don’t know what days it does run. If you did that, you could look for a boat with a “northwest” itinerary (Isabela, Fernandina, Genovesa) and hit all 4 islands that way. I have a preliminary list on the web site under “Choosing a cruise” (p. 4, I think).
Yet another option is a day trip to N. Seymour. It has a sea bird breeding colony that hosts several of the same species as the Genovesa colony does (frigatebirds, Blue-footed Boobies). You probably wouldn’t see Nazca Boobies or Red-footed Boobies there; but if your itinerary doesn’t stop there, it can give you a similar experience.
One last word of caution. You don’t want to book your own flights if you can avoid it. Any agent or owner selling you your trip will do that for you. They want to make sure everyone that’s coming on for their cruise will come in on the same plane. That way, if there’s a delay with the plane, you can be assured that the boat will wait for you because everyone else is on the plane too. If you’re not on that plane but have a delay, the boat will not wait for you.
Tina
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Tina –
Are you still active on this blog – what a wonderful wealth of information. Hope you can help me out, as you have clearly helped so many others.
Planning on a trip in May or June 2020 and want a South-West itinerary to get both Espanola and Isabela. So far, I have only found 3 cruises that so this itinerary – if you know of others I would be forever grateful!
Based on reading the comments on your blog, we have similar priorities.
How would you compare the following:
Ocean Spray (I like this itinerary best – but they have NO availability in 2020! Worth waiting until 2021?)
Day 1 – Baltra to Chinese Hat
2 – Vicente Roca/Espinosa Pt
3 – Tagus Cove/Urbina Bay
4 – Elizabeth Bay/Moreno Pt
5 – Santa Cruz/research station and highlands
6 – South Plaza/Santa Fe
7 – Espanola/Suarez Pt/Gardner
8 – San Cristobal interpretation center
Evolution
Day 1 – Baltra to Daphne Major
2 – Tagus Cove/Urbina Bay
3 – Vicente Roca/Espinosa Pt
4 – Bartolome/Sullivan Bay-Santiago
5 – Las Bachas/Rabida
6 – Santa Cruz/research station and highlands
7 – Espanola/Suarez Pt/Gardner
8 – San Cristobal interpretation center
Thanks SO much for taking the time to help out so many travelers!
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Hi Lesley–
Yep–still active here. Either itinerary is a good, southwestern one. I personally like the Evolution’s a bit better. That itinerary appears to be a continuous 8-day cruise while the Ocean Spray appears to stop mid-week in Santa Cruz to off-load/pick-up passengers who are doing the shorter legs of the itinerary. That pause can work smoothly, if the incoming flight arrives on time. But if it has delays, you might be stuck in Puerto Ayora waiting for the flight. I usually tried to find a continuous cruise because I like the continuity of being with the same people for the entire experience, although that may not matter to you.
I also try to avoid as many landings that can also be reached by day trips–since you’re paying the big bucks for a cruise, might as well maximize its benefits! The Ocean Spray goes to Santa Fé and S. Plaza, both of which can also be reached by day trips. In our experience, the animals lived further from the paths on those landings that day folks could visit also, likely due to the increased human traffic.
But really–those are pretty minor complaints. However, since the Ocean Spray doesn’t have any openings, I’d be tempted to go with the Evolution unless there’s something about the boats specifically that has you leaning one way or the other. The itinerary on the Evolution seems a tiny bit better to me.
I’m glad you’re finding the blog helpful–and thanks for letting me know!
Tina
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Thanks so very much. You are a life enhancer.
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“A life enhancer”–that’s a new and lovely one!
T.
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Hi Tina. I just found your Galapagos site and am starting to sift thru it. My wife and I are planning a first-time trip in late May and would like your opinion as to the itinerary please. Its 8 days on a 14-passenger craft.
Day 1: Baltra Island & Santa Cruz Island: Bachas Beach
Day 2: Genovesa Island: Prince Phillip’s Steps & Darwin Bay
Day 3: Santiago Island: James Bay & sailing/cruising
Day 4: Isabela Island: Vicente Roca Point & Fernandina Island: Espinosa Point
Day 5: Isabela Island: Tagus Cove & Urbina Bay
Day 6: Isabela Island: Elizabeth Bay & Moreno Point
Day 7: Isabela Island: Sierra Negra Volcano, Tortoise Breeding Station & Puerto Villamil
Day 8: Santa Cruz Island: Los Gemelos, then airport
Thank you.
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Hi, John–
This is one of my 2 favorite itineraries–a northwest one. You get to 3 of the 4 most distant islands while most 8-day itineraries only get to 2. So this itinerary will give you the biggest bang for your archipelago buck.
Tina
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Hi Tina, I have been reading your blog for a few years and we are finally ready to make the journey! I’m seriously considering the 8 day western cruise on the Cormorant in early Dec 2019. I’d love your opinion on the itinerary. Also your thoughts on taking the trip in early December? Much thanks! Sue
8 Day Cruise with Cormorant
Sat A.M. Baltra : Arrival in Baltra Airport and Transfer to the boat
P.M. Santa Cruz Island : Twin Craters
Santa Cruz Island : Highlands
Sun A.M. Isabela Island : Las Tintoreras
Isabela Island : Sierra Negra Volcano
P.M. Isabela Island : The Wetlands
Isabela Island : Arnaldo Tupiza Tortoise Breeding Center
Mon A.M. Isabela Island : Moreno Point
P.M. Isabela Island : Elizabeth Bay
Tue A.M. Fernandina Island : Mangle Point
P.M. Isabela Island : Urbina Bay
Wed A.M. Fernandina Island : Espinosa Point
P.M. Isabela Island : Vicente Roca Point
Thu A.M. Santiago Island : Egas Port
P.M. Santiago Island : Buccaneer Cove
Santiago Island : Espumilla Beach
Fri A.M. Genovesa Island : El Barranco
P.M. Genovesa Island : Darwin Bay
Sat A.M. No Isla : North Seymour Island
Baltra : Transfer to Baltra Airport
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Hi, Sue–
This is a “northwest” itinerary, which is one of my two favorites in the archipelago. You get to 3 of the 4 most distant and interesting islands in 8 days, while most more typical itineraries only get to 2 of the 4. I only see 2 slightly less-than-perfect points about it. 1) I generally try to avoid spending much time in the towns, but this itinerary spends an entire day in Puerto Villamil. 2) N. Seymour is best known for its breeding colony of sea birds (frigates, boobies). It’s a fine landing. But visiting it one day after you’ve been to the spectacular breeding colony on Genovesa (and really, spectacular isn’t a strong enough word for this experience), N. Seymour may seem like an anti-climax.
It’s not clear that you’ll get to see the giant tortoises in the highlands of Santa Cruz–the easiest place to see these gentle behemoths living free–on the first day. But since you’re driving right through the agricultural lands where they live, hopefully you’ll make a stop there.
These are all minor points, though. It’s a really good itinerary and you’ll get the most bang you can get for your 8-day archipelago buck!
Tina
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Many Thanks for your blog. Extremely useful when planning a trip like this! I was looking to get your feedback on this itinerary for a trip in January. I wanted to see the Albatross but realize they will not be around so focused on an Eastern Itinerary aboard Cormorant:
SAT AM Baltra: 1 Arrival in Baltra Airport and Transfer to the boat
PM Santa Cruz Island: 2 Twin Craters
Santa Cruz Island: 3 Highlands
SUN AM Isabela Island: 4 Las Tintoreras
Isabela Island: 5 Sierra Negra Volcano
PM Isabela Island: 6 The Wetlands
Isabela Island: 7 Arnaldo Tupiza Breeding Center
MON AM Isabela Island: 8 Moreno Point
PM Isabela Island: 9 Elizabeth Bay
TUE AM Fernandina Island: 10 Mangle Point
PM Isabela Island: 11 Urbina Bay
WED AM Fernandina Island: 12 Espinosa Point
PM Isabela Island: 13 Vicente Roca Point
THU AM Santiago Island: 14 Egas Port
PM Santiago Island: 15 Espumilla Beach
Santiago Island: 16 Buccaneer Cove
FRI AM Genovesa Island: 17 El Barranco
PM Genovesa Island: 18 Darwin Bay
SAT AM 19 North Seymour Island
Baltra: 20 Transfer to the Baltra Airport
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Hi, Jenn–
This itinerary is one of my 2 favorites–a northwestern itinerary, which features Genovesa, Fernandina, and Isabela. (My other favorite is a southwestern itinerary, which swaps Espanola for Genovesa in that list.) Not many boats offer either of these, but they definitely give you the best bang for your 8-day-trip buck.
It also appears to be a continuous itinerary, not stopping in the middle of the week to pick up and off-load other passengers. For me, that’s a really good thing that I look for. I enjoy having the same group of folks for all 8 days and you have a chance to get to know them better than when the passengers change mid-stream.
I say go for it!
Tina
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Hi tina, i would love for some input on December on Corals 2 cruise option
Day 1
Vicente Roca Point – Isabela
Espinosa Point – Fernandina
Day 2
Urbina Bay – Isabela
Tagus Cove
Day 3
Egas Port – Santiago
Day 4
Bachas Beach – Santa Cruz
Charles Darwin R.C
Day 5
Mosquera Islet
North Seymour Island
Day 6
Sante Fe
South Plaza Islet
Day 7 disembark
Thanks!
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Hi!
This is a pretty typical western itinerary and overall it’s just fine. The only downside I see is that you hit the highlights (Isabela and Fernandina) early in the trip. The itinerary ends with quite a whimper from Day 4 on, when you spend 1 day on Santa Cruz and then 2 days going to landings that can also be reached by day trips. Since you’re paying more for a naturalist cruise, it seems a shame to spend, in effect, 3 days in places that folks can go to without being on a cruise. We also found that the animals on the landings that could be reached by day trips as well as cruises tended to live further from the paths, likely due in part to the increased human traffic.
It’s not a bad itinerary since you hit great spots on Isabela and Fernandina. I just think it would be more satisfying to not end the trip with the less impressive sites.
Tina
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you are very kind to take the time to respond! I didn’t think about what you commented so thanks for your honesty! should we spend the extra money and do this trip instead?
Sunday
Puerto Baquerizo Moreno, San Cristobal
El Junco Lake
Monday
Punta Pitt
Cerro Brujo
Tuesday
Punta Suarez
Gardner Bay, Expanola
Wednesday
Punta Cormorant
Post Office Bay, and Baroness Point
Thursday
Highlands of Santa Cruz
CCFL
Friday
Sombrero Chino, Las Bachas or Black Turtle Cove
Bartolome
Saturday
South Plaza Island
North Seymour
Sunday
Interpretation Center
I appreciate your time. I really thought my first option was a good itinerary and price. But maybe I should take this one instead?
Thanks!
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Hi, again–
Actually, this itinerary is considerably weaker than the 1st one. You only get to 1 of the 4 most distant islands (Española) while most 8-day/7-night itineraries get to at least 2 of the 4. And, if you’re going to travel in Dec. (am I remembering that correctly?), you run the risk of seeing few of the stars of Española at that time–the magnificent Waved Albatross. They are wrapping up their breeding season and heading out for 3 months of soaring off the coast of Perú that month. If you were traveling in early Dec., some might still be there. But by mid- to late Dec., most have departed. (I’ve read of 1 or 2 travelers who saw 1 in Jan., but that’s pretty rare.)
But most problematic is only getting to that one distant island. Given how much a naturalist cruise costs, I wouldn’t settle for that. Might you be able to consider the alternate itinerary of whatever boat this is? Usually, if a boat has only 1 of the 4 distant islands on an 8-day itinerary, that means that the other itinerary goes to 3 of the 4–which is the absolute best you can get in an 8-day cruise. If that were the case, you’d be looking at a “northwestern” itinerary (Genovesa, Isabela, Fernandina), which is probably my favorite. (A “southwestern” itinerary is pretty darn good too–Isabela, Fernandina, Española.) Very few boats offer these alternative though, for the very reason you’re running into here–when you have a terrific (3 out of 4) itinerary one week, you automatically have to have a weaker itinerary the next week because you can’t visit any uninhabited island more often than every 14 days.
So I’d say the previous itinerary far outweighs this one, even with its drawbacks (which, in my mind, aren’t all that major).
Tina
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Thanks so much, I really appreciate it. My first option is the Corals 2 in 2020. We have a group of 18 so it’s just hard to find options for such a large group fairly last minute. They did come back with an option on Corals 1 for 2019. Would you mind telling me if I should just wait and charter Corals 2 in 2020 or take this one 2019…
Day 1
Baltra airport
Fausto Llerena Breeding Ctr.
Day 2
Dragon Hill
Bartolome Island
Day 3
Rabida Island
Buccaneers Cove/ Espumilla Beach
Day 4
Black Turtle Cove
Highlands (El Chato) Santa Cruz
Day 5
Vicente Roca Point
Espinosa Point
Day 6
Urbina Bay
Tagus Cove
Day 7
Egas Port
Sullivan Bay
Day 8
Bachas Beach
Baltra Island airport
I guess the 2019 option is a A&B North Central and West Tour and 2020 option is B&C East and West tour. Thanks for your help
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Hi–
This is pretty much another variation on the “western itinerary” theme. However, you visit the less impressive (relatively speaking only) islands early in the trip–when you’ll still find them impressive. So I personally would prefer this option over the one that has you visiting the central islands last. (I hope I’m not mixing up your options here. Let me know if I am.)
The one caveat I have about this one on the Coral I is that you can have passengers joining mid-trip (Day 4, I imagine). I prefer a continuous 8-day cruise rather than one that is made up of 2 shorter segments, as this one appears to be. I think the Coral I carries 36 passengers; so even with 18 in your group, you won’t be the only passengers. (The Coral II only carries 20, I think. So the odds of just 2 people joining your group mid-trip are much smaller, I’d guess. And if you’re chartering the entire boat, that won’t happen at all.) Note though that not everyone cares about folks joining a trip halfway through. My husband, for instance, is very gregarious and would likely LOVE to have new people to meet mid-week. 🙂
Keep in mind that these are rather minor points. Both are the typical western itinerary, featuring Isabela and Fernandina. As such, you’ll have lots of great wildlife and stunning scenery on either one.
Tina
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Hello
I’ll add my thanks for this great website. We’re planning a three week trip in Feb 2019 with the first week on a tour of inland Ecuador, and the second week on a southern loop Galápagos cruise on the Xploration. My question is for the third week. We had planned a beach stay, but haven’t had much luck finding something we think we’d like in Salinas, so now we’re thinking of spending the week somewhere in Galápagos. Can you suggest an area, or hotel that has access to get to a beach, hopefully walking distance to that and some shops and restaurants?
Bev
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Hi, Bev–
Glad you’re enjoying the blog! I don’t know much about spending non-boat time in the archipelago. But where you want to spend your time might in part be dictated by where the itinerary of the cruise goes. Does it spend considerable time on Santa Cruz? Then you might not want to spend more time there. Are there any uninhabited islands you don’t get to visit that you could get to on a day trip from Santa Cruz? That might work in favor of Santa Cruz. Do you spend time in Puerto Villamil? Then you probably don’t want to spend another week there, since it’s a pretty small place.
Without knowing the specifics of your itinerary, my guess is that, given what you’re interested in, Puerto Ayora might have more for you to do for a week.
If you haven’t already been there, you might check out the Galapagos forum on TripAdvisor. This one has a lot of info for land-based travelers: https://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowTopic-g294310-i6637-k11378621-o20-Galapagos_Islands_Detailed_Guide_for_Land_based_Travellers-Galapagos_Islands.html . See if there’s some info there that might help you.
Tina
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Hi, Tina!
Thanks very much for all the wonderful information you have shared.
I am currently planning my Galapagos trip and thinking if I should go in Feb 2019 or August 2018.
Since you have been to the Galapagos for two times, one in September and one in May which season do you think is better?
I am thinking about a land based trip as I am quite susceptible to seasickness and motion sickness. I heard about the choppy sea in August, will snorkelling be dangerous in August when the current gets strong. If I prefer seeing animals and taking pictures of them with blue sky and sunshine as background will it be difficult to do so if I go in August?
Since I have breaks from work in both August (3 weeks) and Feb (1.5 week), I am thinking if I should go to Galapagos in August or Feb.
Thanks so much.
Ceci
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Hi, Ceci–
Just to make sure you know–unless you intend to spend your entire visit on just one of the inhabited islands, even a land-based trip will have you on boats. Day trips to uninhabited islands can take as long as 2+ hours one way on a small speed boat. Ferry trips to other inhabited islands also take 2 hours or so on a small speedboat. If the waters are choppy, people report that these trips can be rather uncomfortable. So be prepared, just in case. Note that you can fly between the inhabited islands, although it is considerably more expensive than the ferries.
I preferred the weather during Sept. (moderate temps, mid-70s; lower humidity) than during our May trip (low to mid-80s and considerably higher humidity). But we were coming from the high plains desert area of Denver, CO–so not everyone would feel that way. The waters in Sept. were considerably cooler than the waters in May were, so you might consider at least a shortie wet suit if you go in Aug. Although Sept. is in the cool/wet season, the rains (mists, really) mostly affect the highlands; we rarely had rains anywhere else. I wouldn’t use rains/clouds as a way to choose one time over the other.
The rough seas of Aug. – Dec. primarily affect the crossings to the outer islands–Genovesa, Fernandina, Isabela, and Espanola. You can’t get to the first 3 on anything but a naturalist cruise, so you won’t be going there. You can find a day trip to Espanola, but you might want to avoid that if you go during the Aug. – Dec. period.
As a result, snorkeling around the more central islands (the only islands you can get to without a naturalist cruise) isn’t much affected by the changes in the Humboldt Current which cause the choppy seas later in the year. So again, I wouldn’t let that guide your decision.
Hope this helps some! And thanks for letting me know you’re finding the blog helpful.
Tina
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I just wanted to say THANK YOU so much for this blog. I recently returned from the Galapagos (traveled July 15-24, 2016) and I was well prepared thanks to your meticulous notes. I began planning for this trip almost 2 years ago and used your excel file with the ship list to begin the task of figuring out which ship to travel on. Based on your great reviews, and the fact that I was traveling alone and did not want to pay the single supplement,I also picked the SS Mary Anne–I did the western itinerary. (booked through Andando Tours) It was an amazing trip–I was so impressed with the level of service and all the amazing things we saw.
There were only 11 other people on the ship (12 including me), so they were able to move me from the small cabin 19, isolated away from all the other guests, to the much roomier cabin 4. The only bad part about this cabin is that you are closer to the anchors and can very clearly hear them clank in and crash to the seafloor (the first night/morning there were some choice swear words employed when we dropped anchor!). As the trip went on, I got used to the sound and they didn’t wake me up when I was sleeping.
Desiree, our guide, was excellent and very informative. I felt like I was back in a college lecture with her powerpoint briefings each night! The crew was helpful and very kind to listen to my broken Spanish I attempted to converse with them. Our panga drivers were skilled and great about pointing out wildlife and steering us closer for a better look. When we did our long sail/motor from Floreana to Isabella, the crew was helpful in spotting dolphins and alerting me to where they were so I could capture them on video.
I have never been so well fed on vacation–the three meals a day were a bit overwhelming compared to what I’m used to. In fact, I found that could arrive 10 minutes late to breakfast and gain extra sleeping time since I’m not a big breakfast eater. (slices of toast and fruit and I’m good!)
The chef accommodated my vegetarian diet restrictions without a problem. I did elect to eat fish on the trip, since I knew the fish was locally sourced, but by the end of the trip I was tired of eating fish and have no desire to eat fish again for a long time! One of our fellow passengers had a much more complicated food allergy, and they were able to take care of her every meal without a problem. The only meal that I was totally unable to eat was sushi at lunch and I averted my eyes while everyone else ate octapus tentacles that were on the salad one night. (ewwww!)
For anyone wondering about water temp in mid July–all of us who went snorkeling on the boat elected to rent the shortie wetsuits, and so glad I did. The water was anywhere from 62 to 67, depending on where we were. Snorkeling from the beach in shallower water was always warmer than when we snorkled off the panga into deep water. I also wore a rashguard under the wetsuit to give me an extra layer of fabric and I also wore my surf socks to keep my feet/ankles a little warmer than going barefoot in the flippers. The wetsuits were only $25 for the week, which is super cheap considering you can pay that for a daily rental in many parts of California. Although the water was cold, I didn’t find it that extreme since I am used to the cold Pacific Ocean of Santa Cruz and the Bay Area. Besides, when sea lions are playing with you, you tend to forget about how cold the water is!
I also saw some people ask about motion sickness or sea sickness. I love roller coasters and I can read in a moving car, but I wasn’t sure how that would translate to a boat. I asked my doctor to prescribe a motion sickness patch (Transderm Scop) thinking I should play safe rather than sorry and was SO glad I had it. When we got onto the boat at Puerto Ayora the was some pretty strong waves and the boat was rocking the moment we got on it (and it was at anchor!) As soon as we were shown to our room I slapped one of the patches on. In the directions it says you should put the patch on about 4 hours before the “activity”—please learn from my mistake and follow those directions!! I was okay at first because we were sitting out on deck doing the safety/evacuation briefing, but once we were released to spend the hour before dinner unpacking, I started to feel dizzy and started having a headache. Being in the enclosed rocking space of the cabin did not feel good, so I only partially unpacked the essentials and went back up on deck–I felt better being able to see the boat/water moving and rocking. We ate dinner inside and I did not feel well—I drank a lot of water to stay hydrated, but I only managed to eat a few bites of the pasta and couldn’t even eat the chocolate cake (I was soooo sad!). I began to feel better as our guide did the briefing–I think it was a combination of the medicine starting to kick in and the fact that I was getting excited about what was to come. Going to sleep the first night was tough—we started motoring to Floreana during the night and there was a definite up/down rolling motion as the boat cut through the water. I found I really had to “self talk” to calm myself down and reassure myself that the rocking motion was natural and that I’d get used to it. When I woke up the next morning I felt much better and didn’t have any problems the rest of the trip. I wore each patch for three days and I was amazed they didn’t fall off with all of the snorkeling and showering. The only problem with the patch is that I have long hair and finding a “hair free” area behind my ear was nearly impossible–so taking off the patch meant ripping out a patch of hair and then being left with a sticky wad of adhesive on my skin/hair. As I acclimated the to boat, I did not change my 2nd patch and instead left it on for the remaining 2 days instead of starting a new one.
Overall, I HIGHLY recommend the SS Mary Anne. It’s worth every penny. This bucket list trip was amazing!
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Hi, Rachel–
Thanks so much for taking the time for this detailed comment. It’s wonderful to hear that the lovely Mary Anne is still as graceful and elegant as she was 3 years ago. It sounds like you had a truly lovely trip (except for that motion sickness stuff). It was good of you to provide a cautionary tale for other travelers about being prepared.
It’s great to have an updated, glowing report about my favorite boat in the archipelago’s fleet!
Tina
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Dear Rachel,
I am beginning to try to develop my trip to the Galapagos for next July 2017. As I am diving into the internet, I feel completely overwhelmed by the amount of info. Most of the info are for people staying only a few days. Any suggestions on where to find best info for a fam of 4 (age 52, 28, 26, 11) who will be there on a very low budget for 4 weeks in July?
I would like to stay at hostels and spend as little as possible for the night and invest in day trips. I understand the best option is to stay in Porto Ayora, but given the fact that we have a little time, should we also try to stay on other islands? I found for example a very convenient accommodation in Puerto Baquerizo Moreno in San Cristobal. I was reading about the exciting things to see/do there, but then I also read about how San Cristobal is not that great and not worth it staying there. . . . 😦 Yap: decisions, decisions, decisions.
THANK YOU in advance for any suggestion you may have. Giordana
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Hi, Giordana–
I think you may be addressing these questions to me, since Rachel did a naturalist cruise rather than a land-based trip. My area of expertise, such as it is, lies in naturalist cruises, since we’ve never done a land-based trip. So I don’t have a lot of information to share. You might want to check out 2 threads on TripAdvisor: https://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowTopic-g294310-i6637-k5379827-A_trip_report_for_the_independent_traveller-Galapagos_Islands.html and https://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowTopic-g294310-i6637-k6582949-Galapagos_Islands_2013_Cheaper_Options_and_Info-Galapagos_Islands.html . Lots of suggestions for things to do there, although be aware that these threads are rather dated now.
Good luck with your search!
Tina
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Tina, I am now doing what I didn’t think I would- asking you to look at our itinerary. This trip is so expensive as we are taking our 3 adult children. It will probably be our only time to see this amazing place. I want to try and make it as “perfect” as possible.
Thank goodness I found your blog as I have spent 3 days on it! We are coming at Christmas 2017, talking to Nemo III.I know one of your favorite islands (Espanola) is not on our itinerary but the albatross will not be there(Boo!) so I think that’s ok. I would like to see tortoises, birds, iguanas which I believe I will- what about penguins, will we get to see those? Also, wall of tears and some volcano hiking?
Is it typical that you are “dropped off” on these islands for the day to do as you choose? Thank you so much for your invaluable help! Sara
Our North Itinerary is:
Day 1 Sunday Baltra – Santa Cruz: Bachas Beach
Day 2 Monday Genovesa: Prince Phillip’s Steps (SN-PR-KY) – Darwin Bay (SN-PR-KY)
Day 3 Tuesday Santiago: Sullivan Bay (SN-PR) – Dragon Hill (SN)
Day 4 Wednesday Santa Cruz: Highlands – Charles Darwin Station
Day 5 Thursday Isabela: Moreno Point (SN-PR) – Urbina Bay
Day 6 Friday Fernandina: Espinoza Point (SN) – Isabela: Tagus Cove
Day 7 Saturday Santiago: Egas Port – Buccaneers Cove (SN-PR-KY)
Day 8 Sunday Daphne Islands (CN) – Baltra
SN = Snorkel
PR = Panga Ride
KY = Kayak
CN = Circum Navigation
T
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Hi, Sara–
This itinerary is one of my favorites–a northwestern one. It’s a great one and you’ll have lots of wonderful wildlife experiences. It looks to me as though you’ll stop mid-tour to go back to Santa Cruz and pick up/drop off folks doing shorter legs of this cruise. That can be fine, but if the incoming plane is delayed, you might face a wait in town. I personally prefer a solid 8-day cruise, without the disruption of moving folks off and on in the middle. But not everyone minds that.
You’ll definitely see penguins, since the largest population of Galápagos Penguins live around the western shore of Isabela and Fernandina. I don’t see that you’ll spend any time in Puerto Villamil, so it doesn’t look like you’ll get to Sierra Negra (the volcano) or the Wall of Tears. You don’t need to be on a cruise to get to those; if you can spend an extra night or two on Isabela before or after the cruise, you could arrange to do those on a day trip or 2, if that’s important to you.
You most definitely do not get dropped off on any of the landings that occur on the uninhabited islands. By Park regs., you have to be with a certified naturalist guide at all times. You’ll likely have 2 landings a day (early morning, late afternoon) and 1 or 2 snorkeling opportunities each day (except on those days you’re in towns).
Tina
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I never thanked you!! Thank you for all your insight- this blog has been my guide!
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Deal Tina,
Your blog has been very helpful for us! We are actually in Quito and looking to book a last minute cruise, we actually found there nice options but have real difficulty deciding beween the Eastern or Western itinerary (even despoten your helpful descriptions). So hopefully you may be able to help shed some light on our decision making?
Ofcourse it matters what type of person you are so in brief; we are a couple just turend 30 and we like activities so the more hiking and snorkling the beter. We love to be in the water so have a clear preference for rather more snorkling than less.
These are the last minute options we have (all max 16 person boots for 8D/7N)
– Majestic (most suprême obviously, but we received a very nice offer)
– Western itinerary B starting from San Cristobal to; Santa Fe, South Plaza Island, Bartholome, Santiago/Egas Port, Tagus cove, Urbina Bay, Fernandina, Isabela, Santiago Buccaneers Cave, Sullivan Bay, Bachas Beach, Charles Darwin station, ending with Kicker Rock (San Cristobal; but no time for snorkling there – most other days all do have snorkling)
– Anahi (a good deal, but our most expensive option)
– East itinerary B2; starting from Baltra (Santa Cruz), Genovesa (Darwin Bay & El Barrarico), South Plazas Island, Santa Fe, San Cristobal (Punta Pitt, Leon Dormido and Lobos Island), San Cristobal (turtles breeding centre and interpretation centre > most boring day maybe of this trip?), Espanola (Punta Suraz, Bahia Gardner), Floreana (incl. Post Office Bay and snorkling at Devil’s Crown), end at Baltra
– Daphne (best price, but other class boat)
– East itinerary B; start from Baltra, Floreana (Post Office Bay and corporate print but no snorkling at Devil’s crown), Espanola (Suarez Point, Gardner Bay), San Cristobal (Kicker Rock and Pitt Point, interpretation centre), Santa Fe (Santa Fe Island and South Plazas Island), Genovesa (Dawrin Bay, Prince Philips Steps), Santiago (rabiaat, Sullivan Bay), Santa Cruz (black turtle cove)
All in all, I thimk we have some great options. But any advice to decide on differences is welcome as it can all get a bit overwhelming. As said; we are snorkling losers and the first itinerary seems to have most of it, but than again the others to to some of the more pristine isands and snorkling placets.
If you have any throughout we are so happy to learn from them!
All the best,
Rianne
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Hi, Rianne–
I’d rule out the Daphne’s itinerary. For my taste, you spend too much time around the central islands and at landings that can be reached by both day trips and naturalist cruises. The wildlife tend to live further from the paths on those landings, in our experience.
Either of the other 2 will be just great. Since snorkeling is a priority for you, I’d recommend the Western itinerary of the Majestic. We found the snorkeling around Isabela and Fernandina to be much more diverse than that around the eastern islands. And the landings are really unusual–lots of lava, so you get a real sense of the origins of the archipelago, and the scenery is spectacular (especially the sunrises and sunsets). You may not be at the end of the world there, but you’ll swear you can see it from there!
I don’t know anything about any of the boats, so I can’t really help there. But I’d vote for the Majestic due primarily to the more diverse marine wildlife there.
Tina
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Hi, Looking to spend 8-10 days in Galapagos the first two weeks of August. I know you recommend the Samba but what are the boats in the First Class (one above Samba) categories that you would recommend? Thank you so much for your help!
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Hi again, Milena–
You really can’t go wrong with any first-class boat, generally speaking. If you’re still looking for a NW itinerary, you could do that same thing I mentioned in my previous response on a different page–look at the list of p. 4 of Choosing a Cruise and then check the web site I suggested to see what the rates are for the first-class boats in that list (and to make sure they still offer a NW itinerary).
I don’t have much personal experience with the first-class boats. I think the Tip Top fleet has at least 1 boat that does a NW itinerary. We sailed on the Tip Top II (which no longer exists, although they bought a new boat that is also called the Tip Top II). We were very satisfied with the company running the boat, if that helps.
But, really, most any first-class boat will provide you a safe and solid trip.
Tina
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Hi Tina,
Thank you so much. We are running into another (unanticipated issue). There are three of us (my husband and I and our 15-y.o. son). I don’t feel comfortable with our son sharing a room with a stranger (and neither does he). I found your spreadsheet re: single supplement but I think you made it quite a while ago. Do you have any off the top of your head thoughts on that third-person dilemma? Thanks again for your kindness in donating time to all of us!
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A few boats have triple cabins, which some folks report to be rather tight quarters. But you really only use your cabin to change clothes, shower, and sleep. So it might not be all that bad.
Here’s a list of smaller boats that (I think) have triples, posted on a listserve elsewhere: Anahi, Beluga, Coral I (36 passengers), Coral II, Cormorant, Daphne, Eric/Letty/Flamingo, Evolution, Galaven, Galaxy, Grace, Grand Odyssey, Nemo III, Odyssey, Ocean Spray, Reina Silvia, Sea Man II. (Odds are there are others; I reiterate my earlier suggestion that you contact an agency that specializes in Galápagos travel for much more help than I can provide.) Some of the “triples” may consist of just a couch that can be turned into a bed – and suitable for shorter (e.g. younger) folks.
Triples are popular with families, so they tend to sell out quickly. Since you’re looking at the high season coming up, I wouldn’t waste any time checking these out. You may need to give up wanting a NW itinerary if you’re also set on a triple; I don’t know what the overlap between those 2 rather restrictive requirements is.
A last alternative is for one of you adults to share with your son and have the other adult look for a possible match-up with a same-sex traveler, to avoid a single supplement. Depends on how desperate you’re feeling as to whether that’s a viable alternative.
Tina
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Thank you. I have contacted the travel agent you recommended and working on finding something that works. Have you heard of anything regarding Nemo II? Mixed reviews on that one but has a triple cabin…
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No, I don’t know anything about the Nemo II. Sorry.
Tina
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Hi there everyone, I don’t if I have left this comment in the right place, I was just wondering why it seems so difficult to get to wolf and darwin island, very few boats go there and the ones that do you need to be a high level diver.
I am planning my trip for November… wow its difficult, but for the Galapagos, we knows its definitely worth it :). I really want to snorkel/dive with the hammerheads, whale sharks and Galapagos sharks (don’t we all). Just wondering where is the best spots for this?
Thank you very much in advance
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Hi, Mark–
You’re right. You can only get to Wolf and Darwin on liveaboard dive boats, where 100 or more dives are recommended due to wicked crazy currents. There are no landings on those really distant islands, so no reason for naturalist cruise boats to travel all that way. In our experience, the snorkeling off the western islands (Fernandina and the western shore of Isabela) was more interesting to us than that off the more central islands–greater diversity, at least. People also speak well of snorkeling at Kicker Rock (off San Cristobal) and reports from snorkeling at Marchena (a northern island near Genovesa) has had some spectacular reports too. Kicker Rock can be either on a naturalist cruise itinerary or done as a day trip. As far as I know, the only boat that has Marchena on the itinerary is the Samba.
However, I’m not the best reporter for marine wildlife. Let’s see if anyone else can chime in with suggestions and recommendations.
Tina
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Thank you for this Tina, so with wolf and darwin island you must show proof that you have certain amount of dives under your belt in order for them to let you dive there?
I have heard some great stuff about kicker rock too.
Will have a look at Marchena.
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Hey, Mark–
I’m not a diver, so I don’t know the specifics of how liveaboards handle that issue. I just know a friend of mine has done a liveaboard that dove at wolf & Darwin; she stated that the dive masters and all dealing with the boat were very clear that advanced divers were all that they would take. I remember her even suggesting that you have a very advanced certification–perhaps some kind of dive rescue certification? just a guess there–since the currents are so strong and unpredictable. And on a liveaboard (perhaps you know this already), all you do is dive, dive, dive. No walks anywhere to see other wildlife. Liveaboards are also very expensive–the last I saw quoted was $4-5K for 8 days. You could try contacting a company that handles liveaboards to get more info.
Tina
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Hi,
I am just beginning my Galapagos research and already overwhelmed..! Myself and my partner (both 30ish) are hoping to spend a month in south America at the end of the year, starting off with the inca trail and then spending a week on a cruise around the Galapagos – in November. Our man attraction is definitively wildlife – so I’m wondering are there some islands can be eliminated just due to the time of year? Hopefully then I can try and pick an itinerary!
Thanks
Amy
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Hi, Amy–
Unfortunately/fortunately, the wildlife will be doing fascinating things any month of the year. (The exception is that the Waved Albatross leave Española starting mid-Dc. through about late March. But even that doesn’t help you.) I suggest you look for an 8-day cruise that goes to at least 2 of the 4 most distant islands–Genovesa, Española, Isabela, & Fernandina. And although there are a lot of variations on that theme, just about any reputable boat with one of those standard itineraries will offer you wonders beyond your imagination. So try not to get too bogged down in the details. Some even go to 3 of the 4 in that time period, but they are far less common and often book early. So 2 of 4 is perfectly lovely.
Tina
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I and my wife plans to go to galapagos for 7 days arriving 6 mar 16 at 11.30am and leave 13 mar 16 at 12. We have no idea how to start the search for cruise. Dontou have any suggestion? We have no particular iinterest but just want to explore the galapagos within the time we have. We think us$300-400 a day for the cruise should be ok for us.
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Since you have a very specific time frame you’re working with, you might want to contact an agency that specializes in Galápagos travel to find out what shorter cruises might be available. You MIGHT be able to find one of the more popular 8-day naturalist cruises that leaves later than your arrival time on Day 1 (and from whatever airport you’re flying into) and that get you to the right airport early in the morning on the last day. But it could be tricky. Instead, you might consider a 4- or 5-day cruise to make sure you make your connections. But a Galápagos-focused agency will be your best bet, I’d say. Happy Gringo and Columbus Travel get good reviews and both have Web sites. Maybe formulate a few introductory questions to both, see who responds quickly and in a style you like, and take it from there.
Tina
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Tina
My wife, sister-in-law, and I just completed an 8 day cruise on The Cormorant. First of all, THANK YOU. I spent nearly a year researching off and on; and found your blog to be the most helpful. Now specifics: we booked through GalapagosIslands.com and the experience was perfect. Paola did a great job; but I really appreciated reading that they do things differently there. We didn’t get reams of documents and details in advance which was anxiety provoking, but everything went exactly as planned. We combined our trip with a week in Peru. We were met at each airport as we arrived, all the guides were pre-arranged, prompt, professional, and enjoyable. It all worked like clockwork and the reassurances I read went a long way to allowing me to just relax. With regard to questions about payment, I did what you suggested and wired the money from the bank (no credit card surcharge) and was able to get immediate confirmation from Paola.
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Hi, Rodger–
Thanks for the report on your successful trip. So glad it all went so well. And thanks also for the positive words about the report here. It’s great that you could add to the collective wisdom too!
Tina
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Rodger and Tina,
I am planning a similar trip; two weeks in Peru and one week in the Galapagos.
Which islands did you visit, which flight did you use and what other suggestions do you have?
Shirlee
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Absolutely amazing blog! Keep up the great work!
My husband and I plan on going for our honeymoon but only have time for a 4 night cruise (also doing machu pichu and carnival in brazil etc). Wanted to get your opinion of the below cruise for $3,100USD.
Boat:YACHT LA PINTA
Tour: Eastern Islands 4Days / 3Nights (Friday to Monday)
Day 1 – SAN CRISTOBAL (-/L/D)
Friday: AM Puerto Baquerizo Moreno Airport / PM Cerro Colorado Tortoise Centre Walks, visit the breeding centre of the highly-endangered giant tortoises.
Day 2 – SAN CRISTOBAL (B/L/D)
Saturday: AM Punta Pitt: Walk,snorkelling, panga ride / PM Cerro Brujo: Walk, panga ride and glass bottom boat.
Day 3 – ESPAÑOLA (B/L/D)
Sunday: AM Punta Suárez: Walk. / PM Gardner Bay: Walk, snorkelling, kayaking, glass-bottom boat.
Day 4 – SANTA CRUZ / BALTRA (B/-/-)
Monday: AM Visit Charles Darwin Research Station, transfer out to the airport.
Price: $3100
It’s a Black Friday deal so I need to move fast if it’s indeed a good deal.
Thanks,
Alice
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Hi, Alice–
Is the $3,100 per person for just the 3-night cruise? (Note that it’s a 4-day/3-night cruise rather than a 5-day/4-night cruise.) If so, that seems pretty expensive–almost $800/person/day–although I know La Pinta is a pretty up=scale boat. With a 4-day/3-night cruise, you really only get 2 full days on the boat because of airport transportation issues on the first and last days (which are really only half days). So this itinerary spends 1 of those 2 precious days on an inhabited island (San Cristobal). That gives you only one day on a more distant, uninhabited island (Espanola). The wildlife tend to live in much closer proximity to the paths on the uninhabited islands, which makes them very special.
Also, you didn’t mention when you’ll be traveling. If it’s between mid-Dec. and late March, this itinerary is even less desirable because the stars of Espanola–the gorgeous Waved Albatross–won’t be back yet from their 3 months of soaring off the coast of Peru. Espanola’s a pretty island, but it’s nowhere near as extraordinary if the albatross aren’t there.
So, in my opinion, this is just an okay itinerary, unless you’re traveling during a season when the albatross will be on Espanola. It also seems like a lot of money for so short a cruise. And given how much money it costs just to get to the island ($~600 airfare and ~100 for Park admission), I’m not sure it’s worth your time and money. Your money might be better spent exploring the mainland of Ecuador. I personally love Quito and the surrounding area, and your money will go much further. But only you can know what it all means to you.
tina
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Hi Tina,
It’s Rachael again. With your helpful advice I’ve now decided we would like to go on the Cormorant and am holding a cabin through Columbus Travel. I have 2 concerns that I wonder if you can help me with:
I have looked on Tripadvisor and the reviews for Columbus Travel seem to be favourable, however the reviews are about a year old. Do you know anything about this Ecuadorian company?
Also, it seems that when paying you have a 3% surcharge if using PayPal and 4% if using a credit card. I’m obviously keen to use a credit card for security reasons.
Apparently, they are holding the last available cabin so I’m unsure what to do.
Thanks
Rachael
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Hi, Rachel–
When you were on TripAdvisor, did you sort the results by date? When I searched for “Columbus” and sorted by date, I saw at least one thread that was just a short time ago. I haven’t had any personal dealings with Columbus Travel, but it’s one of 3 that I routinely recommend because it gets consistently good reviews on TA. And surcharges are pretty much unavoidable when dealing with foreign companies. Many companies are working on surprisingly minimal margins and they are unwilling to absorb this extra charge when most of the rest of their business operates with wire transfers. Only you can decide how important the security is to you. On our last trip, we wired all of our payments from our bank to the bank Heather (of CNH Tours) works with. We had no problems, although it was a tad unnerving. Pretty much anywhere but the U.S., bank-to-bank wire transfers are quite commonplace and just the norm.
Tina
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Hi Tina,
One further question. When does the waved albatross usually return to Espanola.
Thanks
Rachael
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Hi, Rachel–
Generally speaking, the Waved Albatross begin to return in late March. At first, just a few males appear. Probably by mid-April, the females start to return and the breeding season is beginning. Their courtship ritual is fascinating and worth the wait, if you can postpone your travel for a month or so. Keep in mind, of course, that the birds don’t read the books, so your experience may vary. Also, an El Niño is underway, so it’s especially hard to anticipate how that might affect the albatross’ arrival times–they could come earlier, they could come
later, or they could arrive just as usual.
Tina
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Hi Tina,
Thanks so much for your help.
Rachael
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It is Rachael again,
I wanted to add the boat itineraries in more detail:
Cormorant :
Sat. AM Arrival to Baltra and transfer to boat
PM Santa Cruz: Twin Craters /Highlands
Sun. AM Isabela Island: Tintoreras / Sierra Negra Volcano
PM Wetlands Complex / Tortoise Breeding Station
Mon. AM Isabela: Moreno Point
PM Isabela: Elizabeth Bay
Tue. AM Fernandina: Mangle Point
PM Isabela: Urbina Bay
Wed. AM Fernandina: Espinosa Point
PM Isabela: Vicente Roca Point
Thu. AM Santiago: Egas Port
PM Santiago: Espumilla Beach or Buccaneer Cove
Fri. AM Genovesa: El Barranco
PM Genovesa: Darwin Bay
Sat. AM
North Seymour Island
Transfer to the Baltra airport
Ocean Spray:
8 DAY CRUISE OPTION A
Sat. AM Arrival in Baltra and transfer to boat
PM
Santiago Island: Chinese Hat
Sun. AM Isabela: Vicente Roca Point
PM Fernandina: Espinosa Point
Mon. AM Isabela: Tagus Cove
PM Isabela: Urbina Bay
Tue. AM Isabela: Elizabeth Bay
PM Isabela: Moreno Point
Wed. AM Santa Cruz: Charles Darwin Station
PM Santa Cruz: Highlands
Thu. AM
South Plaza
PM
Santa Fe Island
Fri. AM Española: Suarez Point
PM Española: Gardner Bay
Sat. AM San Cristobal: Interpretation Center / Galapaguera
Transfer to the San Cristobal airport
Majestic:
8 DAY ITINERARY A
Mon. AM Arrive at San Cristobal and transfer to the boat
PM San Cristobal: El Junco Lagoon
Tue. AM Floreana: Post Office Bay
PM Floreana: Cormorant Point / Devil’s Crown
Wed. AM Española: Suarez Point
PM Española: Gardner Bay / Osborn Islet / Gardner Islet
Thu. AM Santa Cruz: Twin Craters
PM Santa Cruz Interpretation Center Fausto Llerena
Fri. AM Genovesa: El Barranco
PM Genovesa: Darwin Bay
Sat. AM Rabida Island: Rabida
PM Chinese Hat
Sun. AM San Cristobal: Witch Hill
PM San Cristobal: Kicker Rock
Mon. AM San Cristobal: Interpretation Center and transfer to the San Cristobal airport
Sorry to bombard you with details but I’m not sure which to go for in terms of boat and itinerary.
Thanks
Rachael
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These 3 represent some important choices you’ll have to make. The Majestic’s itinerary is a typical eastern itinerary, where you go to 2 of the 4 most distant islands–Genovesa and Espanola. It’s a fine one, but not as interesting as the other 2.
The Ocean Spray is an unusual one–a southwestern one that goes to 3 of the 4 most distant islands (Isabela, Fernandina, Espanola). Very few boats do this itinerary and normally I highly recommend it. However at the time you’ll be traveling, the stars of Espanola–the magnificent Waved Albatross–won’t likely be back on their breeding grounds yet. Espanola is a lovely island in its own right; but without the albatross, this itinerary isn’t quite as spectacular, in my opinion.
The Cormorant has the other really unusual itinerary–a northwestern one. This one also goes to 3 of the 4 most distant islands (Genovesa, Isabela, Fernandina). If you were traveling at a time when the albatross would be breeding on Espanola, I’d say just flip a coin between these last 2. But since you’re not and you have to miss something on an 8-day cruise, I vote for the Cormorant’s northwestern itinerary.
Tina
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Thanks for your super blog. I’m planning visiting the Galapagos with my 76 year old dad on an 8 day cruise in mid March 2016. Our preference Is for wildlife rather than birdlife.I just wondered if you could advise me on the following:
Boats
Itineraries
Who to book through
Boats – I’m interested in either Comorant, Ocean Spray or Majestic.
Itineraries –
Comorant – Santa Cruz, Isabela, Fernandina, Santiago and Genovesa.
Ocean Spray – Santiago, Isabela, Santa Cruz, Santa Fe, Espanola.
Majestic- San Cristobal, Floreana, Espanola, Santa Cruz, Santa Cruz, Genovesa and Rabida
Booking agents – Galapagos Travel Center.
Re-pricing – does one need to shop around to find the. cheapest deal or is the Galapagos Travel Center a good company to use?
Thanks for your help.
Rachael
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Hi, Rachel–
I don’t know anything about these boats personally, but they all have fine reputations. I also don’t know about the Galapagos Travel Center. You might check a travel site such as TripAdvisor and search to see if anyone there has written comments. Similarly, I don’t know much about comparative prices, although if you wait until shortly before you sail, you could probably save considerable money. But boats of this caliber might be more likely
to fill up in advance, so you’d have to be willing to deal with a more limited selection at that late date.
I DO have opinions about itineraries, though. I’ll respond to your next comment about those.
Tina
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Awesome blog!!! This is so helpful in trying to plan our trip. Thank you for writing in so much detail and even creating spreadsheets.
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Hi, Kevin–
So glad you’re finding the Web site helpful. Thanks for letting me know!
Tina
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ooops. U are right. The Evolution. Sleeps 27. Food was wonderful and no lack of. It also went to 3 of the 4 islands which was wonderful. We also kayaked 2 times free of charge and their wet suits were on the house also. Drinks though were a little pricey.
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Hi Tina
I have just came back from a trip to the Galapagos aboard the Revolution. It was wonderful. The trip included Isabela, Fernandina and the beautiful fabulous Espanola. Also the Santa Cruz highlands. If it had not been for your blog I would not of known the wonderful things about these Islands. So I just wanted to thank you for your feedback and blog. It sure helped me to make this a trip of a lifetime and about the far away Islands that I knew nothing of.
Thank you
Claudine
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Hi, Claudine–
I don’t know of a boat called the Revolution. Do you mean the Evolution? (just in case a reader wants to check out your great recommendation.
Tina
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Hi Tina
you have never mentioned rhe Corals. What is your opinion of Klein Tours?
Suzanne
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Hi, Suzanne–
I don’t really know much about the Corals and I haven’t read very many reviews of the boats. You might check out the TripAdvisor Galapagos forum (http://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowForum-g294310-i6637-Galapagos_Islands.html ) and search for “Coral” or “Klein” (no quotation marks) to see what others might have written. If you sort on “date” rather than “relevance” (the default), you’ll see the more recent reviews first.
Tina
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Really helpful. Thanks
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Thanks for help so far. We are planning a7 day cruise and had decided on ELF boats but a friend who knows islands recommended Eclipse. It looks more luxury than we need or want. Are there any other advantages eg better guides to Eclipse over ELF boats?
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Hi, Jane–
The Eclipse is a much larger ship–48 passengers compared to ELF’s 20 passengers–and a luxury-class boat rather than a first-class boat. I personally am a huge fan of the smaller ships and I don’t need to spend more money on the luxuries of the higher class. With a smaller group of passengers, transportation to and from the landings can occur seamlessly; you also have the opportunity to get to know not only your fellow travelers but also the crew a bit better. First class is plenty luxurious for my tastes (as it sounds like it would be for you too.) ELF is known for its good naturalist guides, so I wouldn’t worry about that. If they sail full, you’ll have a guide-to-passenger ratio of 1:10–which is about the best I’ve seen anywhere.
Keep in mind, though, that I have no personal experience with either of these boats. But for me, I’d definitely opt for ELF over the luxury of the Eclipse.
Tina
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Hi Tina,
What a wonderful blog! I am heading to the Galapagos in the middle of June for a 10 day liveaboard, however I am concerned by the current talk of El Nino…I think perhaps it was a strong El Nino in 2009 when you visited? Could I ask what you saw/didn’t see, and how it affect your dive trip? I am very worried that the sea will be empty as it will be too hot now… 😦
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Hi Olivia
Neither of out trips occurred during an El Niño event, so I can’t help you on this. The last major event, which is really the only strength that is likely to impact travelers, was in 1998-1999, I think. Sorry I can’t help more–but I’m glad you’ve found the rest of the blog useful!
Tina
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Hi Tina,
Thank you for your great blog. In 2012 I spent 8 days on the Millenium II which was a fantastiv experience. Next year I will return to the Galapagos Islands. Your blog will help me to find a ship for my next tour!
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Hi, Stefano–
Glad you’re finding it helpful. Thanks for letting me know!
Tina
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Hi Tina!
Thank you for your most wonderful blog about Galapagos Islands, I have spent a good Saturday reading all the information, but (like most other commentors) are too indecisive and hoping to have your opinion!
We are a couple of 2 from Australia, in our late 20s. Very unfortunately, we only have 5 days maximum to do Galapagos Islands in mid October, so we are hoping for a tour/itinerary for a shorter period. We dont mind a small/big ship but comfort is our priority. As it is a shorter timeframe, we would appreciate your opinion on which islands we should prioritise.
Would it be possible to hear which cruise you might suggest? I know you must get this alot!
Thank you so very very much in advance,
Regards,
Bella.
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Hi, Bella–
I fear, with only 5 days, you’ll be very limited in what you can do. Most of the 1st and last of the 5 days are taken up with getting to and from the archipelago. If this is all you can spare, I suggest that you not try to do a naturalist cruise (as much of a fan as I am of cruises). A 3-day cruise (which is all the time you’d have left) will only be one full day at sea because the first day is an afternoon outing and the last day, a morning outing because of airport transportation issues. You might consider spending your nights on Santa Cruz and doing one day trip to an uninhabited island on as many days as you can (your choices are Bartolomé, N. Seymour, Santa Fé, S. Plaza, and Floreana). Not all day trips run every day, so you’d just have to see what trips are available when you get there. You could also get up the highlands to see the Giant Tortoises living free on the agricultural lands there–much better that just seeing them in the breeding programs. Tortuga Bay is a nice beach that you could get to on your own in Puerto Ayora (Santa Cruz) too.
There might be a few boats that have 3-day cruises, but I don’t really know much about ones that short. The typical short cruises are 4 or 5 days, as I recall. Keep in mind that you’ll spend ~$600 per person just to get to the archipelago (airfare, INGALA, National Park fee). I’m not sure it’s worth it, but only you can know.
Tina
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Thank you Tina 🙂 I’ll start looking into the one day tours…
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Hi Tina,
We’re a young couple from Switzerland, coming to Ecuador for a wedding in Quito. Have the 2nd or 3rd week of May available for our Galapagos experience. It seems a bit complicated to plan it, luckily we found your blog:) We would like to ask you something small.
We’re planning to do either a 6days or 8days tour, not luxury, but still good, also not especially interested in a certain species, we will try to experience as much as possible within our time. Yet, our question is, which route does make more sense for a week of time in the month of May? We would prefer the route where we will see more at that certain time.
Looking forward to your answer
Thanks
Lara
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Hi, Lara–
May is a wonderful month to be in the Galápagos. The waters typically are quite calm, the weather is warm (well, really rather hot and humid), and the wildlife will be doing interesting things no matter where you go. (But that last point is true no matter what month you travel in.) My favorite itineraries are those (relatively few) that get you to 3 of the 4 most distant (and most interesting) islands. If you check out this page of the blog, you’ll see a partial list of boats that have these itineraries: https://galapagos2009.wordpress.com/practicalities/choosing-a-cruise/5/ . Scroll down to the paragraph starting “You can now see…”
Tina
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Fantastic blog Tina, I’ve spent almost a whole day reading through all of the info on your blog! While I’d love to have a 16 day itinerary to cover Espanola, Genovesa, Fernandina, Isabela, Devil’s Crown at Floreana and Bartolome, time and budget are just not going to give me that option. I’m really interested to hear which of your tours you enjoyed most? For me my main interest is in wildlife photography (though I love the dramatic landscape of Bartolome also) and I’m currently torn between whether to do both Espanola & Genovesa; missing out on the western side, or whether to try to get an itinerary that includes the western side and Genovesa. Your thoughts/advice would be greatly appreciated.
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Oh and we are looking to go mid-year, probably in July.
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Ah–now that’s a question. I honestly think that a “northwest” itinerary that goes to Genovesa, Isabela, & Fernandina is a really good place to start. It does limit the number of boats you can consider. But getting to 3 of the most distant islands is really a prize. During the time that you’re traveling, an Española/Isabela/Fernandina itinerary is also terrific. However that itinerary is offered on very few boats, so your choices are really restricted. And among those that do, many only get to the town of Puerto Villamil on Isabela or hit just 1 or 2 of the Isabela landings. Devil’s Crown may be hard to find on that northwest itinerary (since it’s a very southerly island). But the marine wildlife you’ll see around Isabela and Fernandina is spectacular–so I don’t think you’ll miss Devil’s Crown that much.
July is high season, since it’s in the heart of the North American school holidays. So you don’t want to wait too long to make a decision–especially if you’re looking at the small subset of boats that do a northwest itinerary.
Good luck!
Tina
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Thanks Tina. We decided to target a NW itinerary and we’ve narrowed down our choices to Tip Top II, Samba or Guantanamera. Any suggestions or thoughts on the boats themselves and/or the itineraries would be much appreciated. 🙂
Their itineraries are as follows.
Tip Top II
Baltra, Bachas
Santiago: Sullivan Bay, Bartolome
Genovesa: Darwin Bay, Prince Phillip Steps
Santiago: Puerto Egas, Bucaneer Cove
Isabela: Punta Vicente Roca, Fernandina: Punta Espinosa
Isabela: Urbina Bay, Tagus Cove, Elizabeth Bay
Isabela: Tintoreras, Wetlands, Wall of tears, Tortoise breeding centre, Sierra Negra Volcano
Charles Darwin Station, Baltra
Samba
Baltra, Santa Cruz: twin craters
Genovesa: Darwin Bay, Prince Phillip Steps
Marchena: Punta Mejia, Playa Negra
Isabela: Punta Abermarle, Punta Vicente Roca
Fernandina: Punta Espinoza, Isabela: Urbina Bay
Isabela: Elizabeth Bay, Punta Moreno
Floreana: Asilo de la paz, Cerro alieri, Loberia
Santa Cruz Twin Craters, Baltra
Guantanamera
Baltra, Bachas
Genovesa: Prince Phillip steps, Darwin Bay
Bartolome, Santiago: Sullivan Bay
Isabela: wetlands, wall of tears, tortoise breeding centre, Sierra Negra Volcano
Isabela: Elizabeth Bay, Urbina Bay
Isabela: Tagus CoveBay, Fernandina: Punta Espinosa
Santiago: Espumilla Beach, Bucaneer Cove, Rabida
Daphne / Mosquera, Baltra
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Howdy!
These 3 itineraries only differ on small points. The TTII and Guantanamera both spend an entire day in the town on Isabela (Puerto Villamil), which is not something I personally would care that much about. The walk to the volcano (Sierra Negra) can be a real muddy slog with no views if it’s rainy (which, by the reports I’ve read, can happen often). But if the skies are clear and the ground dry, it can be nice. But I’ve always tried to minimize the time spent in the towns, since I’m there for the wildlife. Others, of course, feel differently.
The Samba’s itinerary gets to pretty much every key landing on Fernandina and the western shore of Isabela (with no time in Puerto Villamil), so that would be my preferred choice. It doesn’t go to Santiago, which I thought was a lovely island (and I especially enjoyed the up-close-and-personal views of the nocturnal fur seals (sea lions, really) at the gorgeous grottoes. But that’s not a major deal. It also goes to Floreana, but you don’t snorkel at Devil’s Crown (reported, by those who know, to be 1 of the 2 best spots for snorkeling). However, you’ll have fascinating snorkeling along Fernandina and Isabela, so again–no deal breaker in my opinion.
I know the TTII well (from 5 years ago) and the Samba well by reputation. The Samba is 1 of 2 tourist-superior-class boats that I wholeheartedly recommend. Her principal guide, Juan Manuel Salcedo, gets unbelievably rave reviews. (The Salcedo family owns the Samba.) But even if he’s not guiding on a trip, it seems that the Samba has very high standards for excellent naturalist guides–a very important factor in this trip. The Samba is small and doesn’t have many spacious common areas. But I think she’s a great bargain for the money. She’s also a very popular boat, so she sells out way in advance.
We traveled on the TTII in 2009 and loved it. She’s the oldest “sibling” of the Tip Top fleet, run by Wittmer Turismo. (Rolf Wittmer, recently deceased, was the first baby documented to have been born in the Galápagos, so they’re long-time residents in the archipelago.) We really liked the organization–they gave moderate benefits to the crew (unusual in this situation) and even had some of the best staff on long-term contracts (again, very unusual, since naturalist guides tend to freelance). The crew we had and the naturalist guide were all just great.
I don’t know anything about the Guantanamera except that she is a tourist-class boat (the lowest of the 4 classes). The TTII is a first-class boat (2nd highest category); the Samba, tourist-superior class (the level above tourist and below first-class). In the Galápagos, you often get what you pay for. So with the tourist class boats, you need to make sure your expectations are not set too high. The Samba will be a bit roomier with a greater likelihood of a terrific guide; the TTII, a bit more luxury (but hardly over the top), with again a good chance of getting a terrific guide.
Hope this helps!
Tina
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Hi Tina,
I would like to begin by congratulating you on the most wonderful blog. Such an incredibly useful, informative and well laid out web-site. I am in your debt already. I apologize for the following questions as I am sure that if I studies your blog and all the questions you have previously answered thoroughly enough I should be able to come up with the idea trip myself.
However, I am finding myself to be very indecisive and am eager to have your opinion. We are a family of 4. Forty something parents and a 12 and 9 year old girl. We hope to travel from Ireland to the Galapagos in the next 12 months. Both the girls are pretty well travelled and very well behaved (so they would not pose an annoyance to other passengers – I hope). Ideally we would be hoping for a good quality boat though not necessarily luxurious. Heat and blue skies would be great (making it a change from Ireland) and our wildlife focus would be the mammals, bigger birds and snorkeling with the wildlife experiences. We are also very interested in volcanoes and I am an avid amateur photographer. I appreciate this is asking a lot – is there anything that springs to your mind that may suit us? I had initially looked at the Nat Geo trips but am not sure about the dates which appear to be mostly in June to August which I fear might be a little cold for me.
Thank you so much for your time,
Sonya
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Hi, Sonya–
Thanks for the positive feedback! I’m so glad you’re finding it all helpful.
Given what you’ve written, I would suggest checking out the 3 sister ships operated by Ecoventura–the Eric, Letty, and Flamingo (aka ELF). These 3 boats often travel together and the operators sort passengers by groups (e.g., young adults, older adults, families) into the different boats. I’ve read really great things about the naturalist guides who have traveled with the families–extremely good at engaging the kids and keeping them focused, thereby giving the parents some time to enjoy the sights as well. ELF carry 20 passengers each; since the National Park requires 1 naturalist guide for every 16 passengers, ELF travels with 2 naturalist guides per boat if they’re full–giving you a 1:10 guide-to-passenger ratio. That’s a really nice group size. And even though the 3 boats travel together, they schedule things so that you don’t feel like you’re traveling as a pack. Other boats have family sailings, but they tend to be most common during North American school holidays.
As for itineraries, your interest in volcanoes leads me to suggest the northwest itinerary of ELF. (I’m assuming you’re thinking about an 8-day/7-night cruise.) It’s a really good one that actually gets to 3 of the 4 most distant islands–Isabela, Fernandina, and Genovesa. (The majority of itineraries only get to 2 of the 4 distant islands.) The lava-filled scenery around Isabela and Fernandina is spectacular; they are the youngest islands and have the more active volcanoes. (I think one of them erupted in 2008 or 2009 even!) Comparing our 2 trips, I’d say that the marine wildlife for snorkeling was more diverse around those 2 islands than around the more central and eastern islands. The sea bird colonies of Genovesa are absolutely stunning; you wander eye-to-eye with nestlings of frigatebirds and boobies. Really amazing.
Of course there are other wonderful boats, but I consistently read superb reports about ELF and family trips. These boats are pretty popular; so if you’re interested–don’t dawdle.
For the warmest weather and calmest seas, look to Jan. – April or May, if you can. Heat, humidity, and sun will abound, interspersed with occasional showers. It’s a very tropical time to be there.
Hope this helps!
Tina
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ELF have A and B routes. Vehicle is better or doesn’t it matter
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I’m not sure what you mean by “vehicle is better.” But ELF (aka Ecoventura) has one of the best itineraries in its northwest itinerary (I think it’s B). It goes to 3 of the 4 most distant islands–Genovesa, Isabela, and Fernandina. Most boats put 2 of the 4 on one of their 8-day itineraries and the other 2 on the other. So the chance to get to 3 of them on one 8-day itinerary is a terrific opportunity.
Tina
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Tina thank you so much for getting back to me so quickly. I look forward to looking up the ELF boats. I’m very very excited about the trip. I’ve been planning it for decades and waiting for the girls to be old enough to really appreciate it has been tough 🙂 Happy New Year and thanks for your unofficial ambassador efforts. I’m not sure how I’d manage the planning without your blog. Much much appreciated.
Sonya
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ELF boats have been recommended. They have routes A and B is one better? Also how is Mary Ann different from ELF?
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Itinerary B–the northwest one–is a really strong one and is better than A. On B, you get to 3 of the 4 most distant islands (Genovesa, Isabela, and Fernandina); on A, you only get to 1 of the 4 distant islands (Española). You also spend more time around the central islands, several of which can also be visited by day trips from Santa Cruz. The wildlife on those islands tend to live further from the paths, due in part to the increased human traffic, than on the less-visited islands. So I’d vote for B, hands down.
Lots of differences between the Mary Anne and ELF (aka Ecoventura’s Eric, Letty, Flamingo) as boats (e.g., the Mary Anne is a 200+-foot true sailboat while ELF are all smaller motor yachts). But really, while we absolutely adored the roominess and old-world elegance of the Mary Anne, both get terrific reviews. You’ll be happy on either.
Tina
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Hi Tina,
We just returned from a 7-night eastern itinerary cruise on the Mary Anne, which was fabulous. Your website helped so much as I was planning and choosing our cruise, and we were absolutely blown away by the Galapagos. The details and tips you provided were spot on, so THANK YOU for all the work you have done to share your trip, and make sure the rest of us have the best trip possible!
Adrienne
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Hi, Adrienne–
Wonderful! I’m delighted to hear that the Mary Anne is still her wondrous self. I’m so glad you had a great time and also found the blog helpful. Thanks so much for letting me know!
Tina
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Hi Tina
just wanted to let u know I did book the West and Central aboard the Evolution. It carries 32 people. They also have a pair of Level 111 naturalist guides. I just wanted to thank u so much for all your help. Without u I would not of known these far away islands ( this one goes to 3 of them ) Isabela, Fernandina and Espanola, and how u get to see more wildlife because of it. Also about the guides and how important that plays a part of the cruise. Also the Highlands in Santa Cruz. So again thank u so much for your time and punctual replies to my questions. I really did learn a lot because of your expertise. 🙂
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Hi Tina,
Thanks for your great blog. We are thinking of going on the Anahi catamaran next November. Do you know this boat? I wonder if you could help us choose between these two itineraries:
ITINERARY B1 – 8 DAYS
Friday:
A.m. Arrival at Baltra on Galapagos. Transfer to the town of Pto. Ayora and aboard the Yacht.
P.m. Visit to the Highlands of Santa Cruz Island.
Saturday:
A.m. Isabela Island: Visit to the Tintoreras / Tears Wall / Tortoises Breading Center.
P.m. Isabela: Hiking to Sierra Negra Volcano.
Sunday:
A.m. Isabela: Visit to Moreno Point.
P.m. Isabela: Visit to Elizabeth Bay
Monday:
A.m. Isabela: Visit Urbina Bay .
P.m. Isabela: Visit Caleta Tagus.
Tuesday:
A.m. Fernandina: Visit Punta Espinoza
P.m. Isabela: Visit Punta Vicente Roca
Wednesday:
A.m. Santiago: Visit Pto. Egas
P.m. Visit Rabida Island
Thursday:
A.m. Visit Sombrero Chino (Chinese Hat)
P.m. Visit Bartolome Island
Friday:
A.m. Visit Seymour Island, Baltra Island.
ITINERARY B2 – 8 DAYS
Friday:
A.m. Arrival at Baltra airport on Galapagos. Transfer and aboard the Yacht.
P.m. Visit Bachas Beach.
Saturday:
A.m. Genovesa: Visit Darwin Bay
P.m. Genovesa: Visit El Barranco
Sunday:
A.m. Visit South Plazas Island
P.m. Visit Santa Fe Island
Monday:
A.m. San Cristóbal: Visit Punta Pitt
P.m. San Cristóbal: Visit Leon Dormido and Lobos Island
Tuesday:
A.m. San Cristóbal: Visit El Junco Lagoon and Galapagos Turtles Breading Center.
P.m. San Cristobal: Visit Interpretation Center / Tijeretas Hill.
Wednesday:
A.m. Española: Visit Punta Suarez
P.m. Española: Visit Bahía Gardner / I. Gardner / I. Osborn
Thursday:
A.m. Floreana: Visit Punta Cormoran / Corona del Diablo
P.m. Floreana: Visit Post Office Bay
Friday:
A.m. Visit C. Darwin Station. Transfer to the airport on Baltra Island.
Mich
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Hi, Michelle–
So glad you’re finding the blog helpful!
You’re faced with the classic “east vs. west itinerary” challenge. B1 will hit the 2 westernmost islands (Isabela & Fernandina); B2, the 2 most distant other islands (Genovesa and Española). It’s a tough choice, but you’ll have to miss something on any 8-day itinerary.
I think I’d lean slightly toward B1. You’ll get to see the Giant Tortoises living free in the SC highlands–a truly wondrous experience. You’ll get to the major landings/snorkeling spots of the stark, stunning western islands. (The naturalist guides on our 2 trips both said that their absolutely favorite snorkeling spot in the archipelago was Punta Vicente Roca.) Comparing our 2 trips, I’d say the marine wildlife was more diverse along the western islands than around the eastern islands. The western islands have the largest species of Marine Iguana, which you might even get to snorkel with. Very cool! And although you won’t get to the terrific waterbird breeding colonies of Genovesa, you’ll get a taste of those on N. Seymour (which I assume is what they mean for the last morning’s landing–Seymour is an early name for Baltra, but I doubt you’d spend your last morning’s landing on that island, since the only thing there for tourists is the airport).
B2’s highlights are the seabird breeding colonies of Genovesa and the breeding colonies of the magnificent Waved Albatross on Española. Snorkeling at León Dormido (aka Kicker Rock) is reported to be good; and Corona del Diablo (aka Devil’s Crown) is typically mentioned as 1 of the 2 best spots in the archipelago (along with Isabela/Fernandina). I don’t see a place that you’ll see the Giant Tortoises living free, although perhaps there’s a spot on San Cristóbal. (We’ve not been to San Cristóbal.) Seeing the tortoises in the breeding centers is nowhere near as wonderful–more like seeing them in a zoo.
The main drawback to B2, in my opinion, is that it really is made up of 2 shorter cruises; when you’re spending time in San Cristóbal, those doing the shorter cruises will be leaving and coming on board. That can work fine if the plane arrives with no problems; but you could face delays if the in-coming flight is delayed. But I personally have always tried to go with continuous 8-day cruises (which B1 is).
I don’t know anything about the Anahi except that it’s a first-class category catamaran. Most first-class boats are just great–a touch of luxury, a decent chance of getting a good naturalist guide (really important!), and a clean, safe boat.
Tina
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Hi Tina…. I am sorry on my last email I gave u the wrong date for the Evolution. It would be May 29th to June 7th. Again thank u so much for all your feed back.
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Hi Tina : U must of thought u heard the last of me. 🙂 U are just so knowledgable that I hope u do not mind if I keep asking u questions. I just found another itinerary that sounds wonderful so just wanted your opinion if u have a minute. It is with the Evolution and it would be Mar 20 2015. Not a time I had wanted to go but it did have a good deal and Islands I liked.
Baltra / Santa Cruz-Whalers Bay
Isabela- Punta Vicente Roca / Fernandina – Punta Espinoza
Isabela – Urbina Bay, Tagus Cove
Bartolome/Sullivan Bay
Bachas Beach/Cerro Dragon
Santa Cruz Research and the Highlands
Espanola-Punta Suarez
San Cristobal- Interpretation Centre
Thanks again for all your help.
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Hi again, Claudine–
This seems like a fine itinerary. The only drawback I see (at least it would be a drawback for me) is that you’d spend 2 days in a row on Santa Cruz in the middle of the 8 days. I’ve been to Bachas Beach, although never to Cerro Dragon. Bachas was okay, but not that great. In general, I try to minimized the # of days spent on the inhabited islands, so this one would really break up the cruise for me. But aside from that, it seems fine. You get both a sampling of the Isabela/Fernandina landings and Española (I’m glad you corrected the date there–March is not the best time for Española), which not many boats do.
Tina
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Hi Tina,
Thanks again for your great advice! It actually changed what we were planning to do. There are not many resources on this subject so I really appreciate your time!
Melissa
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Hi, Tina. I love this blog! My family and I are planning a trip to the Galapagos. We are debating between October 2015 and March 2016. My husband is nervous about the cruises because of seasickness in our family. We have three adventurous boys ages 12, nine and seven. My question is do you prefer a cruise over a land-based tour? We found two suites available on a ship called Santa Cruz which holds 100 people. I am just having a hard time finding reviews about the different ships and experiences. We have contacted a travel agency call adventure life. Have you heard anything about them? Thanks so much for your help!
Melissa
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Hi, Melissa–
I don’t know much about the Santa Cruz (I’m a small-boat fan) or Adventure Life. If you’re worried about motion sickness, shoot for traveling between Jan. and April; those are the times with the highest likelihood of calmer seas. I would DEFINITELY avoid Oct. and Nov.; the Humboldt Current can really get the waters rocking and rolling during those months although there are no guarantees of completely smooth sailing, even during the calmer months–it is the ocean, after all! Larger boats are likely to feel the chop a bit less than the smaller boats. But there are a LOT of effective motion sickness remedies available; on both of our groups, the scopolamine patch (rx-only, at least in the US) was a real favorite, seemed to work for a wide variety of people, and can open up your options.
I mention this because the smaller boats offer a really intimate experience with this marvelous archipelago. One company that routinely has family sailings is Ecoventura. They have 3 sister ships that sail together (the Eric, Letty, and Flamingo); Ecoventura tends to divide the boats into different types of travelers so that one boat often is just families. They have a great reputation for having naturalist guides who are especially good with kids on those family sailings, which can be wonderful for kids and parents alike. Other boats have family sailings during the school holidays of North America (July, August, the Dec. holidays), so you might check with your agent about those possibilities too. Just something to consider.
I clearly prefer a naturalist cruise over a land-based tour. With kids, you only have to unpack once and you’re done for the rest of the trip. You generally get 2 landings and 1 or 2 snorkeling opportunities a day on a cruise; on a day trip to another island from Santa Cruz (the only place you can get to other islands), you can only do 1 island a day. Cruises get the best landing times–first thing in the morning, when the wildlife are just waking up and looking for their first meals of the day; and last thing in the afternoon, as the heat of the day has passed and the wildlife are looking for that last snack of the day. Day trips typically spend 2+ hours–one way!–on a small speed boat just to get to an island; so you land mid-morning with the light is becoming the harshest and the temps, the hottest. Those small speed boats can be dreadful if the water is anything but glass-smooth; lots of folks report getting sick in even slight chop. And on a cruise, you waste no precious daylight motoring to your next outing–the boat travels during lunch or at night while you sleep. You get up the next morning, have a scrumptious breakfast, and the curtain opens on your next adventure. It’s ideal, in my opinion! You pay more than a land-based tour but you get so much more for your money.
I’m so glad you’ve found the blog helpful–and thanks for letting me know!
Tina
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Hi Tina — we are planning a Galapagos cruise in July 2015. If we went with a “Tourist Superior” boat, the cruise is 8 days (Baltra, Genovesa, Bartolome, Isabela, Santiago & Daphne). It is a 16-passenger boat (Guantanamera). The second choice is “First Class”, and it is for 5 days (Baltra, Bartolome, Santa Cruz, Isla Mosquera, & San Cristobal (Millennium Yacht)— for the same price as the “Tourist Superior” cruise. We were told that the difference between the two levels is that the Tourist Superior is an older boat, and the rooms are not as nice, and there would be no balcony. The luxury level of the room is not important to us, since we will be spending so much time off the boat. Can you provide some advice on what to expect if we went with the Tourist Superior versus First Class? To us, three extra days in the Galapagos is worth giving up a little luxury, but we still want the tour guide & the food to be great. Thanks! Sandy
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Hi, Sandy–
I don’t know anything about the Guantanamera personally. But if you haven’t already seen it, you can find a review here on TripAdvisor: http://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowTopic-g294310-i6637-k7136272-Galapagos_cruises_Eden_Floreana_Guatanamera-Galapagos_Islands.html#57800887 . It sounds like a solid tourist class boat. I’m not sure you’re guaranteed to get a GREAT naturalist guide, but these folks had a decent one. (Since the guides freelance, they move around from boat to boat.) Food was good but simple, although these folks reported the group might have wanted a bit more at times.
So, as long as your expectations are set accordingly, I think you’ll be glad to spend the extra days in the archipelago. It is a truly marvelous place!
Tina
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Thank you again Tina and your comments make sense! Without worrying about altitude in Quito that gives us more flexibility with cruise dates.I also might investigate flying from Guayaquil to Peru.
Great appreciation for your expertise and time, Bernadette
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Hi Tina,
What a joy to find your blog and the wealth of information. I am planning a trip to Galapagos late April 2015 and that has just become much less daunting!
After reading, I am a little concerned about the suitability of this trip for my husband who is a virtual non-swimmer. Irony is that his love of all things wild-life is why I am planning in the first place without realising that snorkeling was so intrinsic. I would really appreciate your opinion as to whether we would be better spending our money elsewhere.
Thanks
B
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Hi, Bernadette–
Glad the blog has been helpful!
Snorkeling is a big part of naturalist cruises. But on both of our trips, we had a few non-swimmers. Some folks just put on their personal flotation devices (PFDs) that we all had to use on the pangas and bobbed around the waters with the group like safe, happy corks. They were able to experience just about as much of the marine wildlife as the rest of us did. So if your husband isn’t too phobic about water, that could be a wonderful solution.
If that wouldn’t work, you might look for a boat that has kayaks. You can’t kayak everywhere that the snorkelers go (kayaking is strictly controlled by the National Park), but he might be able to paddle in a few areas. Another possibility might be to just stay in the pangas when the snorkelers are in the water. The panga operators stay close to the snorkelers at all times, so anyone can signal to them to get out of the water sooner. So at least your husband could be out on the water. Or sometimes, as a total alternative to snorkeling, the boat might offer a panga ride for the non-water folks.
Not all snorkeling starts from the pangas; sometimes, you start from a beach. In that case, he could easily just loll on the beach although he wouldn’t be allowed to wander around most beaches without the naturalist guide there. (Most of the time, the guide will go snorkeling with the group.)
Even though I’m a major fan of the smaller boats, you might find that you have more options for each outing on a larger boat. I don’t have a lot of experience with those boats, but it’s probably more likely that non-snorkeling options would exist with most outings when more groups are heading out.
And of course, you don’t have to go on any outing that you don’t want to. So your husband could just relax on the boat during snorkel outings. On both of our trips, 1 or 2 folks always stayed behind. As long as you let the naturalist guide know that you won’t be going, there’s no problem with just hanging out.
So I’d say you don’t need to rule out this trip, as long as your husband is comfortable enough to don a PFD and sit in a panga to get to the landings. He’ll have to wade to some beaches, but the water on those “wet landings” is usually no deeper than calf-deep.
Tina
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Many thanks for the rapid reply Tina and even more helpful information.I will check out some of the larger but maybe not huge boats and yet think he will probably cope with those you have recommended.
On another note, do you think it is better to go straight to Guayaquil before the cruise and avoid any possible altitude issues?
B
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Hi, Bernadette–
I’m not really a big fan of Guayaquil, although I know of others who enjoy it. To me, it seemed like just another hot, humid river port city. I would suggest flying into there only if you know you or someone in your group has serious lung issues. If that’s the case, Quito will probably present a challenge.
But if you’re just sort of worried in general about the altitude, I’d consider spending 2 or 3 days in Quito. It’s such a lovely city with many options within just a short distance. It is high altitude; but in general, the altitude doesn’t bother most casual visitors. If you intended to get off the plane and go mountain biking or serious hiking right off the bat, okay–that could be a problem if you live in lower areas. But most folks take a tour of the historical district or do a day trip to the cloud forest or perhaps a couple-day trip to Otavalo to the markets. Those aren’t strenuous trips and you can easily pace yourself so that the altitude plays very little role in your visit.
Having written that, only you can know what is likely to be best for you. And for flying back, we have always chosen to go stop for the night in Guayaquil. (All flights from the archipelago to mainland Ecuador stop first in Guayaquil and then go on to Quito.) The airport is very near the city and decent hotels (unlike the new airport in Quito). Since we’re just spending the night to catch a flight back to the U.S. the next day, Guayaquil makes great sense.
Tina
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Tina – you really should have made this blog into a book. Your information and witty way of delivering it is way better than any others I have read. I read every word and LOVED every one.
We are going to the Galapagos on May 12 of this year. We will be staying in Quito for two nights and then onto the Galapagos Islands on the Corals. We are going on three back to back cruise itineraries and will be gone 18 days. So Excited!!!! This is a bucket list trip so I want to get in as much as I can – I turn 65 in July. You mentioned that shortie wet suits were desirable on your September trip – but how about your May trip?
Thank you so much for all your helpful information,
Suzanne Barlettani – Concord, CA
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Hi, Suzanne–
I’m so glad you enjoyed the blog and found it helpful! Thanks so much for letting me know.
For me, I was glad I had my shortie wet suit for the May trip. First, I’m a not-very-confident swimmer, so the extra buoyancy was great. Jumping from the panga–typically my most anxiety-filled snorkeling moment–became great fun because I’d just bob up to the surface like a little cork. Also, the waters around the western islands (Isabela and Fernandina) are noticeably cooler than are the waters around the more central islands. Also, as you head further south (e.g., Floreana), you may notice cooler water temps. They also provide you some protection from sunburn–it’s hard to use sunblock well with so much time spent in the water. (Of course, a t shirt or a rash guard will provide that too.) And mine kept me warmer on the panga rides back to the boat when still wet than the towels provided by the boat did. On our May trip, probably about 1/3 of the snorkelers used wet suits; so clearly they’re not mandatory. But I was very glad to have it.
It’s great that you can do the full 14-night trip. Even though it’s not cheap, it’s cheaper than going back to hit the islands you missed the first time (like we did) when you realize how much you love the archipelago! You’ll have a wonderful time.
Tina
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Thank you for the great information – I’ll let you know how our trip goes.
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Just getting back to William’s comment – which I find misleading. As an agent myself, I know for a fact that ship operators set a “rack rate” for their cruises, and announce this to all agents. They also tell you the % commission an agent will get on the rack rate.
Bear in mind that the ship operator is almost always also in the sales business. I.E. he/she is competing with other agents to sell spots on their own ship! They realize that it’s better to have an army of agents selling your ship to all kinds of different markets, using different angles, than just trying to sell your ship all by yourself.
Under these circumstances, it just doesn’t make any sense for a ship operator to announce a rack rate for Ecuadorian agents that is lower than a rack rate for non-Ecuadorian agents. In this day of internet and easy price comparisons, who would want to agree to sell a product at a higher price?
Any search for the price of particular cruise will reveal identical prices, no matter who is selling it. In fact, in my experience, it’s true that a few Ecuadorian based agents are offering cruises at a price LOWER than what the actual ship operator is offering themselves. You can imagine that the ship operator doesn’t like being undercut on their own prices! It makes them look like they are gouging clients. When they find out, the make it clear to the agent that this is not acceptable.
All this to say that William’s claim is unfounded.
Heather
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Another quick note – if you book with an international agency (such as a US or Canadian agency) you will be paying a higher price than with a local Ecuadorian agency 9 out of 10 times. The owners of the boats offer special prices to local agencies, and the commission they add is normally less than international agencies. Also, many international agencies will contact a local agency to book a cruise for their passengers. The local agency will sell the cruise WITH the added commision to the international agency, which the international agency will sell to the passenger with their own commission. Hence, you could be paying double commission for a cruise by booking through international agencies. However, I always recommend going with the company you feel most comfortable with, and I know many people trust more in US and international companies. Just thought I would add my 2 bits.
P.S. Your blog is fantastic.
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Just a note re: where the money stays when you book with an Ecuadorian company. The only difference is where the commission stays. The rest of the money goes to the ship operator.
Tina writes:
Thanks for this clarification. I’ve adapted the text to make this distinction clear.
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